Wine of the Week, May 25, 2013

PACIFIC RIM ORGANIC RIESLING 2011

COLUMBIA VALLEY

WASHINGTON STATE $13.99

In addition to Pacific Rim's DRY RIESLING, RIESLING, and SWEET RIESLING, all of which we have here at Harney's, and with which you may already be familiar, the vineyard has now  produced a fourth Riesling, one made from organic grapes. A word about organic. In this case, it means that the grape vines have been grown by the method of organic farming, without the use of industrially produced chemicals, including fertilizers and pesticides. However, it does not mean that the wine is sulfites-free. First of all, sulfites are a naturally occurring result of the fermentation process; it is inevitable. Secondly, sulfites are an effective anti-spoiling agent which are added by the vintner (wine maker), especially and extensively, to white wines, less so to red wines. If you are one of the unfortunate 5% of the population which is allergic to sulfites, reading the label on a wine carefully is important. Labels typically read: no sulfites detectable (meaning that the amount of sulfites is almost non-existent), or no added sulfites (the only sulfites are those naturally occurring), or contains sulfites (the vintner has added sulfites to preserve the wine, giving it a longer shelf-life). That said, Pacific Rim Organic Riesling has delightful aromas and flavors of jasmine, apple, and citrus; it is medium-sweet, with refreshing acidity. It is a perfect complement to Asian cuisine, and to light summer dishes.

 

WINE OF THE WEEK, May 19, 2013

LEESE-FITCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CALIFORNIA 2011 $10.99

What a wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon from California! So many Cabernets from California have become cult wines, which, I feel, are overpriced. While they may be good wines, we are paying for the name as we do for so many products throughout the retail world. An expensive price doesn't necessarily guarantee satisfaction. Harney's has many good Cabs for under $20. Leese-Fitch is medium-bodied, has a creamy texture, and exhibits flavors of dark currants, blackberry, with hints of coffee, chocolate, and cedar. I like a more pronounced taste of wood in my Cabs, but at $10.99, I forgive the vintner (wine maker). Please consult the June edition of Ring Brothers Newsletter for some tips that possibly will enhance your enjoyment of wine. 

WINE OF THE WEEK (5/12)

                                    SIMI CHARDONNAY 2011

                            SONOMA COUNTY CALIFORNIA $12.99

The Chardonnay grape is planted in more grape regions of the world than any other grape. It accounts for a wide variety of wines, including Chablis, Pouilly Fuisse, and Champagne, and it lends itself to a wide variety of styles, from unoaked to buttery and creamy. In training new staff members here at Harney's about what wines to recommend to people, I invariably say Simi Chardonnay, which, vintage after vintage, is a predictably good wine. It is dry (not sweet), balanced (meaning harmonious), and offers aromas and flavors of pear, green apple, and tropical fruit, with a slightly creamy mouth-feel, and just a hint of oak. It is particularly complementary to seared scallops, to Shrimp Scampi, and to chicken dishes.

WINE OF THE WEEK, May 05, 2013

WASHINGTON HILLS, WASHINGTON STATE LATE HARVEST RIESLING 2011 $8.99

I prefer dry (not sweet) wines, but some people enjoy sweet wines, so I've chosen this Riesling (pronounced REEsling) as the Wine of the Week. It is called late harvest: a technical term, signifying that the grapes were afforded extra time on the vine in order to develop further sugar and to deepen and intensify flavor. Its alcohol content is low, 11% - a big red is around 14% - because the fermentation process (yeast + sugar=alcohol) was stopped early so that the yeast did not turn all the sugar into alcohol. All wine, even the driest reds, have some residual sugar, just as all wine contains some residual sulfites, a naturally occurring result of the fermentation process. Contrary to popular belief, no wine is entirely free of sulfites. Read the label carefully on an organic wine. It should say either: no sulfites detected, or no added sulfites. 5% of the population is allergic to sulfites. Generally, sulfites are added to white wine as a stabilizer, to give it a longer shelf-life. In most cases, the tannins in red wine act as a stabilizer. Washington Hills, Late Harvest Riesling, is medium-sweet, with intense flavors of honeyed apricots and peaches. Serve it well-chilled, circa 55 degrees. Uses: I suspect that it would overpower any food, so why not enjoy it on its own out on the deck or as an after-dinner drink, or, perhaps make a wine spritzer: ice, 4oz. wine, 2oz club soda, a slice of fruit as a garnish. The screw cap closure, which, I feel, will be universal in the not-too-distant future, makes it convenient. There is, however, no romantic pop with a screw cap.

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 28, 2013

         GASCON MALBEC 2011 MENDOZZA, ARGENTINA $14.99

A drinker of wine comes to a wine with certain minimum expectations. From a Cabernet Sauvignon, I expect a medium- to full-body, I expect flavors of blackberry, dark currant, mocha/chocolate would be nice, and, definitely, a hint of cedar, but I don't want to feel that I need a saw to get through the taste of wood, just a hint of cedar. The Malbec grape is one (1) of six (6) grapes allowed in the blend of red Bordeaux wines. Argentina took the grape from France, planted it extensively, and now produces 100% Malbec wines, identified uniquely with the Mendozza region. Maybe it's only me, but I feel that Malbec has undergone a couple of transformations over the last twelve or so years. Twelve years ago Malbec became very popular, and rightly so. Then, for whatever reasons (mass production or rushing the aging process or flood irrigation - the result is a plumper grape but a diluted taste - or who knows what), Malbec became lacking in flavor, flabby, and weak. If this GASCON MALBEC is any indication, Malbec is back. It is mediium- to full-bodied, with soft, round tannins, with flavors of blackberry, plum, blueberry, dark cherry, spice, and a hint of mocha. Delicious!

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 21, 2013

WHISPERING ANGEL ROSE 2012 COTES DE PROVENCE FRANCE $16.99

We're in the process of increasing the number of Rose wines for the warmer weather. Maybe it's just me, but heavy red wines just don't seem to go down too easily when it's hot out; the taste of alcohol, rather than being integrated, is too pronounced and lingers in the mouth. Historically, Rose wines were syrupy sweet - spine-rattlingly sweet - which turned off most wine drinkers. The preferred Rose wine now is light in body; dry, not sweet; fruity, not sweet. The liquid is not allowed to remain for long with the skins, seeds, and stems; it doesn't touch wood. The resulting color is pink. I recently had a fillet of salmon; I invariably pair salmon with a Pinot Noir. This time I tried a good Rose. The result was marvelous!  Whispering Angel is a blend of five red grapes: Grenache and Syrah (which is typical of the Cotes de Provence in the southeastern area of France), Rolle, Cinsault, and Mourvedre. Speaking of salmon, this wine is pale-salmon in color, with the taste of fresh strawberry fruit, and with a long finish. By the way, you may have noticed the increasing number of wines with silly names and silly labels. In the end, if a wine is good, it will sell itself. Whispering Angel is a very good wine. 

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 14, 2013

 

MASCIARELLI 'MARINA CVETIC VINEYARD' MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO ITALY 2008 

Many of you are already familiar with Masciarelli's Montepulciano D'Abruuzzo, an earthy, rustic, inexpensive red wine from Central Italy. This is a more refined and elegant version of that wine, a recent addition to Harney's. Marina is a big wine, with a 14.5% alcohol level. It is deep-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with concentrated flavors of ripe black cherry and plum, and with hints of mocha and licorice. The tannins are soft, the mouth-feel is silky, with a long, smooth finish. Enough said! Enjoy! $20.99.

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 07, 2013

TERRA D'ORO OLD VINE ZINFANDEL DEAVER RANCH

SIERRA FOOTHILLS CALIFORNIA 2009

On Sale this week for $15.99

California is known and respected worldwide - and rightly so - for its production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay (especially creamy and buttery - imparted by the wooden barrel - Chardonnay), and Zinfandel. Much of California's success with these wines is owing to its geography which I will explore at length in May's Ring Brothers Newsletter. TERRA D'ORO is one of the best Zinfandels that I have ever tasted. I mention Deaver Ranch, the place where the grapes are grown, because the vines there are 100 years old, pulling water and nutrients from multiple soil layers, each layer further enhancing the character of the grapes. 

This wine exhibits a deep, dark, alluring red color; aromas of berry jam, plum, clove spice (typical of Zinfandels), with hints of cedar; and flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, plum, and cocoa.  It is smooth and well-balanced (a harmonious whole: no one element dominates), with a long, velvety finish. The price of TERRA D'ORO has been reduced from $18.99 to $15.99, this week.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 31, 2013

Think summer. Think 90 degrees. Think a lounge chair on the outside deck. Now open a bottle of light and refreshing Protea Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is the name of a white grape, and it is South Africa's most widely planted varietal. (As an aside: the world is indebted to France from which so many varietals have come, including Chenin Blanc. The French, however, are somewhat reluctant to admit that any other country produces wines that are in any way superior to their own.) Protea Chenin Blanc has hints of pear, citrus, and, especially, honeysuckle. Succulent! Not one person at a recent tasting at Harney's, had anything but smiles and praise for the wine. You can't miss the bottle: it is unique and striking with its white paisley design. $14.99.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 24, 2013

I would like to depart from my usual format, and suggest a few of my favorite wines for your pleasure during the upcoming holidays. In some cases the wine may be a little higher in price than what I usually recommend, but I feel that the holidays invite us to "kick it up a notch."

WHITE

Big Fire Pinot Gris (Grigio), Oregon. I feel that Oregon, on the whole, produces the best - at least to my taste - Pinot Gris in the country right now. It is fuller-bodied, with more fruity flavor, than the standard Pinot, as exhibited in Italy and California. $13.99.

La Crema Chardonnay, California. Medium-bodied, buttery and creamy, with a hint of pineapple. A very satisfying mouthful. $16.99.

Hugel "Gentil," Alsace, France. Perhaps my favorite white wine at Harneys. The white wines from Alsace are extraordinary. Hugel, made from, mainly, the Pinot Blanc grape, is elegant, balanced, smooth, dry, with a hint of - is it? - honey. $14.99.


RED

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, France. You may be familiar with Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau, but the Village version is a step above, having a more intense color and taste. Light and fruity. 100% Gamay grape. $9.99.

Big Fire Pinot Noir, Oregon. Tasters have suggested the aromas and flavors of wild rose, tea leaf, violets, pomegranate, berries, chocolate, plum, tarragon, and cranberries. It is certainly soft, ripe, warm, vibrant, but, can there be so many aromas and flavors in one wine? Taste and see. $15.99.

Cameron Hughes Merlot, Chalk Hill, California. Luscious. Succulent. Very satisfying. If you like Merlot, you'll love this Merlot, which exhibits deep aromas and flavors of dark fruit and mocha. $18.99.


I will be continuing with wine terms in the upcoming (April) monthly newsletter, exploring further the differences between dry and sweet, and between fruity and sweet. And in May, I will explore the role that geography plays in the production of wine.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 17, 2013

COPPOLA CLARET CALIFORNIA $19.99

I enjoy a good wine made from each and every varietal: a Malbec from Mendozza, Argentina, a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, a Shiraz from Australia, a Tempranillo from Spain, a Merlot from Columbia Valley, Washington State, but my favorite wine is a well-made Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily from California, and, secondarily, from Chile. One of my favorite movie makers is Francis Ford Coppola of GODFATHER and APOCALYPSE NOW fame. In Claret, the two, Cabernet Sauvignon and Coppola, come together. Coppola would not stamp his name on anything that was less than excellent. And, although a little higher in price than an everyday wine in the $10 to $15 range, it is affordable as a weekend wine or for a holiday. Many California Cabernets have become cult wines, and, although they are good, I feel they are overpriced. Claret is the name that the British at the beginning of the twentieth century gave to Bordeaux-like red wines. This edition of Claret is mainly, as always, Cabernet Sauvignon, usually in the 80% range, with lesser amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Although it is a complex wine, given all the varietals, it is balanced, and exhibits smooth tannins, succulent flavors of blackberry, cassis (black currants), plum, with hints of mocha and cedar. It satisfies all my expectations (weight, color, aroma, and taste) of a good Cabernet Sauvignon. Enjoy!

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 09, 2013

 

Dolmo Tempranillo Spain $11.99

There are many very good wines at Harney's in the $10 to $15 price range. All of the wines featured in WINE OF THE WEEK have been less than $15. There is no need to spend more than that for an everyday wine. You might be willing to spend a little more for the weekend or for a special occasion, such as Easter (in a later WINE OF THE WEEK, I will suggest three white wines and three red for Easter). I've tasted some very expensive wines that were horrendous. As with all products in the retail world, the name of the product often determines the price, but not necessarily the quality.

Tempranillo is a red grape (just as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are red grapes), grown extensively in Spain. Dolmo is a red wine. As an aside: all grape juice is white; the depth of color of a red wine is determined by the length of time the juice spends with the skins; White Zinfandel (the Zinfandel grape is red) spends very little time with the skins, so, the resulting color is pink.

Dolmo is an earthy wine, soft, with low acidity, with aromas and flavors of berries, plum, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla. It is very food-friendly, pairing well with beef. It is located in the Spanish section of Harney's, in an endcap facing the beer cooler.
 
WINE ENTHUSIAST magazine rates Dolmo 90 points, which it deserves.

WINE OF THE WEEK , March 3, 2013

Piccini Memoro

Italy

Castellino in Chianti

Red Blend

Ah, Italy! Ah, Tuscany! Ah, Castellino in Chianti! MEMORO is an Italian word having something to do with memory. I certainly need no reminder to remember beautiful Castellino in Chianti in the Chianti Classico area of Italy. Vineyards everywhere. Flowers everywhere. Especially red geraniums in so many window boxes overlooking narrow streets. I should have stayed there! Although I was only visiting, a tourist, I felt immediately at home. Following up on last week's WINE OF THE WEEK: 14 HANDS, a succulent red blend from Columbia Valley, Washington State, this week I recommend for your pleasure MEMORO, a red blend from Italy. It is a commemorative wine, celebrating the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. A blended wine can be made by first mixing different varietals of grapes, e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Zinfandel grapes, before the fermentation process (cf. February's marketplace newsletter: yeast + grape juice = alcohol)) or by mixing the already-made wines of different varietals. I don't know the merits of one approach versus the other. I do know that by using already-made wines, the vintner (wine maker) is able to use a wine from a different year.

Memoro started out by mixing grapes (not wines) from four areas of Italy: 40% Primitivo (an ancestor of the Zinfandel grape) from Puglia; 30% Montepulciano from Abruzzo; 20% Nero d'Avola from the Sicily region; 10% Merlot. It is immediately drinkable/easy to drink, medium to full-bodied, with a deep ruby color, dark cherry aroma, fruity (not sweet), with flavors of chocolate covered cherry, plum, and very ripe dark fruit; it is creamy, silky, with a long, smooth finish. And all of that for only $10.99. I will long remember MEMORO.

WINE OF THE WEEK, February 23, 2013

14 HANDS COLUMBIA VALLEY 

WASHINGTON STATE  RED BLEND

More and more red-blend wines are appearing in the marketplace; even the more prestigious and upscale vineyards are now jumping on the red-blend bandwagon. The main reason for this trend is that red blends are meant, in most cases, to be immediately drinkable: open and drink. The vast majority of wine buyers purchase wines on their way home from work to be consumed that evening with dinner, or they buy wine for weekend consumption. There is little thought of cellaring (storing a wine, in some cases for years, until it matures). Many people, not having the time or the patience, find the need for aeration (exposure to air for a certain length of time to achieve maximum flavor) to be a nuisance. The vintner (wine maker), in making the red blend, acts like a chemist, adding a particular varietal of grape/wine to achieve a desired effect. Perhaps a particular blend-in-the-making needs more fruit (add more Merlot), perhaps it needs a hint of wood (Cabernet Sauvignon), perhaps it needs some spice (Zinfandel), and so forth. 14 HANDS, a red blend from Columbia Valley, is one of those wines that make you smile after the first sip. I am partial to the red wines - especially the Merlots - produced from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley which has desert-like conditions (hot days, abundant sunshine, and cool nights), rich volcanic soil, and plentiful runoff water from the Cascade Mountains which is utilized as needed. In the 1950s, the predominant, almost exclusive, crop grown there was sugar beets. Sugar beets! Then along came someone who envisioned great wine. Good for him! Good for us! 14 HANDS is deep ruby red, full-bodied, full-flavored, a mouthful of ripe dark berries, with hints of mocha and wood. The percentage of each varietal of grape/wine is not revealed, but I suspect it is mainly Merlot (only Bordeaux and Tuscany produce equally exceptional, luscious Merlots), with lesser percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. At $12.99, it is an affordable, everyday wine. Harney's has many such satisfying red-blend wines at reasonable prices. Other recommended red-blend wines: Menage a Trois, Sterling Meritage, Piccini Memoro. Ed, the Wine Guy, is available at Harney's, Wed. through Sat. 4:00 to 7:00.

WINE OF THE WEEK February 10, 2013

Rosenblum Cellars Vinter's Cuvee XXXIII Zinfandel California

 

Many reviewers of this wine call it a good introduction to Zinfandel. I take exception to the use of the word introduction. I find it a good Zinfandel, period, full-bodied, with robust and intense scents and flavors of blackberry and raspberry, and with more than just a hint of spice. A very satisfying mouthful. Food pairing: a hearty pasta sauce; barbecue dishes. Just this past summer, I visited Rosenblum Cellars in Alameda, California, and tasted several of its wines, one more pleasurable than the other. Cuvee, by the way, simply means a blend. Priced at $9.99/2 for $18.00, I feel that this is an exceptional buy. 

Ed, the Wine Guy, is available at Harney's 4:00 to 7:00 Wednesday through Saturday.

WINE OF THE WEEK, February 03, 2013

The Crossings 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand

 

 

 

 

I recently visited a restaurant here on the Cape that spelled Sauvignon Blanc as Blank. (I don't think it was a typo.) The Crossings is anything but Blank. It is a lively mouthful, with an unique flavor of gooseberry: grapefruit, lemon, and lime; it is crisp and slightly pungent. This particular vintage: 2011 has been universally rated very high. France and Chile also extensively produce Sauvignon Blanc, each country with its distinctive scents and flavors, but I favor New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Taste the offerings of all three countries and compare. A recent pairing of a tossed green salad with crumbled feta and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was extraordinary. $14.99.

 

Ed, the Wine Guy, is available at Harney's from 4:00 to 7:00 Wednesday through Saturday. 

 

WINE OF THE WEEK January 31, 2013

Viu Manent Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Valle De Colchagua Chile

 

 

 

In general, I believe that Chile, after California, produces the most satisfying Cabernet Sauvignon. Viu Manent's Gran Reserva exhibits a traditional style: full-bodied, with scents and flavors that we expect from a good Cabernet. To the eyes, it is deep ruby red; to the nose, scents of black currant, fig, and date; to the mouth, flavors of plum, dark chocolate, and hints of coffee. But, give it room! Give it air! Let it breathe! It's a young Cabernet, and it needs - with the help of air - to expand and develop. I suggest opening the bottle, and then forgetting about it for at least an hour, preferably longer than that. It would be interesting, by way of comparison, to take a sip immediately after opening, and then compare that to a taste after an hour or so of breathing. How mellow it has become! How delicious! Suggested food pairings: beef stew, grilled steak, barbecue, chili. This Cabernet - as well as Viu Manent's Carmenere and Malbec - is on display in the marketplace at Dark Horse Beef and Deli Co., as well as in Harney's. All three varietals are $10.99, 2 for $20.00.

 

Ed, the Wine Guy.