WINE OF THE YEAR 2013

WHISPERING ANGEL ROSE 2012 COTES DE PROVENCE FRANCE 

The five wines under consideration for WINE OF THE YEAR 2013 were Acrobat Oregon Pinot Gris; Masciarelli Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic Vineyard, Italy; Kris Pinot Grigio, Italy; and Whispering Angel. All five wines were received enthusiastically by you, but none more so than the Whispering Angel. In all my years at Harney's, I have never received such enthusiastic feedback about a wine. Historically, Rose wines were syrupy sweet - spine-rattlingly sweet - which turned off most wine drinkers. The preferred Rose wine now is light in body; dry, not sweet; fruity. Whispering Angel is a blend of five red grapes: Grenache and Syrah (which is typical of the Cotes de Provence in the southeastern area of France), Rolle, Cinsault, and Mourvedre. The liquid is not allowed to remain for long with the skins, seeds, and stems; it doesn't touch wood. It was fermented in stainless steel vats without barrel fermentation to ensure freshness of aroma and flavor. This wine is pale-salmon in color, medium-bodied, with the taste of fresh strawberry fruit, and with a long clean finish. One reviewer said that there is an aroma of dried rose petal, and I agree. Elegant, so elegant! Once we have crossed a threshold of taste, there is no going back. Whispering Angel is a Rose to which you will compare future Roses.

I would like to suggest the following wines for your Thanksgiving pleasure. Most of them have been reviewed already during the year in my Wine of the Week column: go to harneysliquors.com, and select blog. I have chosen these wines because, based on your feedback, they have proved to be your favorites. Thanksgiving is not the time to experiment; the comfort of tradition is most important: family and friends, food, and wine; we want everything to be predictably good. These wines are predictably good. And, none of them is over $20. A happy and delicious Thanksgiving!

WHISPERING ANGEL ROSE From France. One of the top-selling wines of the year. Dry, with a hint of strawberry.

TRIMBACH RIESLING From Alsace, France. Elegant, dry (not sweet), aromatic, and very flavorful, with high acidity that assures a clean, crisp finish.

ACROBAT OREGON PINOT GRIS Creamy without the aid of oak. Aromas and flavors of citrus fruit, pineapple, honeysuckle, melon, and apple, with a long, smooth finish.

FIRST CRUSH SAUVIGNON BLANC A delicious wine locally produced. It has the traditional flavors of Sauvignon Blanc: lime, guava, grapefruit, but the body is light with the hint of a fizz.

COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES MERLOT Those of you that know me, know that I am partial to the Merlots of Washington State, Columbia Valley, whose lushness, in my opinion, is matched only by the Merlots of Bordeaux and Tuscany.

14 HANDS RED BLEND From Columbia Valley, Washington State. Merlot-based, with Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

TALMARD CHARDONNAY From France. Stainless steel fermented and aged. Fresh, creamy, dry, with aromas and flavors of tropical fruits.

CREME DE LYS CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA. Creamy and buttery. Lush flavors of tropical fruit, apple, vanilla, and a hint of butterscotch.

KRIS PINOT GRIGIO My favorite Italian Pinot Grigio, differing in style from Oregon Pinot Gris. Light and crisp, with hints of citrus, tangerine, apricot, and honeysuckle. 

GASCON MALBEC  MENDOZA, ARGENTINA. For those who want gusto in their wines. Full-bodied, soft tannins, flavors of blackberry, plum, spices, and a hint of mocha.

OZV ZINFANDEL Full-bodied, jammy fruit, spicy, soft tannins. A Zinfandel to which you will compare future Zinfandels.

Wine of the Week, October 27, 2013

ANGELINE RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2012

CALIFORNIA $19.99

The Pinot Noir grape is a thin-skinned, sensitive, finicky grape. It is difficult to cultivate and difficult to transform into wine. In the hands of a good vintner (winemaker), as is found in Burgundy, France, and Willamette Valley, Oregon, and Sonoma County, California, it can be coaxed into an extraordinary wine. I have tasted Pinot Noirs from around the world, and many of them, while they may be pleasant-tasting, are not recognizable as a true Pinot Noir. Angeline Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 is a true Pinot Noir, exhibiting the essence of the grape. It is medium-bodied, balanced, and concentrated, with aromas and flavors of rose petal (yes, rose petal), cranberry, raspberry, and spice. A perfect complement to a traditional Thanksgiving dinner; also, it weds well with a salmon fillet, each bringing the best out of the other.

Wine of the Week, October 20, 2013

LA VIEILLE FERME ROUGE 2012

COTES DU VENTOUX, FRANCE

$7.99

One of my favorite, inexpensive, tasty, everyday wines. La Vieille Ferme (the old farm/farmhouse) is a red blend of mainly Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache grapes produced by the Perrin family who have been making wine for centuries in the southeastern area of the Rhone wine region. La Vieille Ferme, similar to a Cotes du Rhone, is full-bodied, dry, fruity (not sweet), with soft tannins and a spice component. It has a deep-red color, with aromas and concentrated flavors of ripe cherries and berries. At $7.99 it is, arguably, the best wine value at Harney's.

Wine of the Week, October 13, 2013

TRIMBACH RIESLING 2011 ALSACE, FRANCE  $19.99

I enjoy all good wine, both red and white, from a full-bodied, dense, complex Marina Cvetic Montepulciano D'Abruzzo (last week's Wine of the Week) to a light, elegant, subtle Pinot Blanc. It is not true that all Riesling (pronounced REESLING) wines are sweet. They can be bone-dry (no residual sugar), semi-sweet, or sweet. The best example of all three styles is produced by Pacific Rim Vineyard: the same grape produces all three. A side by side tasting of all three would immediately show the difference. Recall the fermentation process: yeast + fruit juice (sugar) = alcohol. In general, the lower the sugar, the higher the alcohol. The Trimbach 2011 Riesling is bone-dry. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the driest, 10 being the sweetest, this Riesling is a 2. It is highly aromatic (floral), fruity (peach, grapefruit, lemon), has a mineral note (slate), with a high acidity that assures a clean, crisp finish. A perfect accompaniment to Asian dishes; a must as a Thanksgiving wine.

Wine of the Week, October 6, 2013

MASCIARELLI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO

MARINA CVETIC VINEYARD 2008

$19.99

No, I'm not getting senile; yes, I have already reviewed this wine before in this column. Harney's has been very fortunate to recently obtain several cases of this wine. If anything, it is even more satisfying now. There are over 10,000 varieties of wine grapes. 10,000! Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of them. Abruzzo, by the way, is a region in central Italy bordering the Adriatic Sea. Let me repeat what I have said previously: this is a big wine with a 14.5% alcohol level; it has concentrated flavors of ripe black cherry, plum, and prune, with hints of mocha, licorice, black pepper, and spice; its tannins are soft, the mouth-feel is silky, with a long, smooth finish. And, we are able to offer this altogether extraordinary wine at a price lower than before.

Wine of the Week, September 29, 2013

 CREME DE LYS CHARDONNAY 2011 CALIFORNIA $10.99

A word first about the meaning and importance of the wine term: vintage, the year in which a wine was produced. A particular wine can vary greatly from year to year, depending on the weather, the amount of rainfall, at what time of the growing season the grapes were picked (too early would mean increased acidity as opposed to late-harvest: a much sweeter grape), and many other factors. I'm thinking about a vineyard that was purposely flooded a week before harvesting in order to plump up the grapes. It increased the amount of  wine, but, of course, the flavor of the wine was diluted. So, the vintage is very important. Most wines are consistently good vintage after vintage, owing to the skill of the vintner. Creme De Lys Chardonnay exhibits lush flavors of tropical fruit, apple, vanilla, and a hint of butterscotch. Because of sur lie aging (cf Wine of the Week 9/8) in wooden casks, it has a creamy and buttery style. It is a mouthful. I would pair it with cream sauce recipes such as lobster thermidor and the many Alfredo sauce recipes. Other comparable wines here at Harney's are Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay and Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay.

Wine of the Week, September 22, 2013

OZV ZINFANDEL 2009 OAK RIDGE WINERY LODI, CALIFORNIA $13.99

What a remarkable wine! One of the best Zinfandels I have ever tasted! It only confirms that California produces the best Zinfandels worldwide. An interesting aside: DNA fingerprinting has traced the Zinfandel grape to the Primitivo grape as found in southern Italy, and further to a grape in Croatia. OZV (Old Zinfandel Vine) fully satisfies one's expectations: it is dark in color; full-bodied; robust; concentrated; with aromas and flavors of jammy raspberry, blackberry, plum, and mocha, and a hint of smoke (from the oak) and spicy black pepper. It has soft tannins, and a long, smooth finish. Once we have crossed a threshold of taste, there is no going back. OZV is a Zinfandel to which you will compare future Zinfandels.

Wine of the Week, September 15, 2013

MONTEBUENA RIOJA TEMPRANILLO 2010
$10.99/2 FOR $20.00

Rioja is a wine region in Spain which grows the Tempranillo grape (native to Spain) extensively. This is a big wine: 14% alcohol, boldly dry (not sweet; it is fruity, but not sweet), with deep concentration. It is light- to medium-bodied, with a beautiful ruby red color, with aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum, peppercorn, and vanilla. Because it is a relatively young wine, it could use about an hour of aeration during which time the flavor will expand. Remove the cork and busy yourself with the cooking. It would be interesting to take a sip upon opening the bottle, and then compare it with the taste an hour later. The difference is remarkable.

Wine of the Week, September 08, 2013

ACROBAT 2012 OREGON PINOT GRIS

$11.99

Another delicious, thoroughly-satisfying Pinot Gris (Grigio) from Oregon. Acrobat is so distinctively Oregonian in aroma, taste, and texture. Let me explain. It is aged for four months sur lie (on lees), which is the course sediment consisting mainly of dead yeast cells and small grape particles that accumulate during fermentation, which can be filtered out of a wine or allowed to settle at the bottom of (in this case) stainless steel vaults. In the hands of a vintner who knows what he is doing, a wine that ages sur lie gains in complexity: a creamy texture, with hints of honey, nuts, toasted bread. Acrobat has aromas and flavors of citrus fruits, pineapple, honeysuckle, melon, and apple, with a long finish. If I were to line up for a tasting Pinot Gris from Italy, Alsace (France), and Oregon, the differences of style - I enjoy all three - would become immediately apparent, and I wouldn't have to be going on and on with words: one taste is worth a thousand words.

Wine of the Week, September 01, 2013

14 HANDS RED BLEND 2011 COLUMBIA VALLEY

WASHINGTON STATE $10.99

I have already in the past reviewed 14 Hands Red Blend in this column. However, it has been out of stock for a while and this is a different vintage, and, I feel, it deserves a re-introduction. In general, red blends are made to be immediately drinkable. Just open and imbibe. I am partial to the red wines of Columbia Valley, as you can tell from previous reviews. Columbia Valley seems to bring out unique tastes that are unattainable elsewhere. Its Merlots are rivaled, in my opinion, only by Bordeaux, France and Tuscany, Italy . This vintage is a blend of Merlot, Syrah (Shiraz, it's the same grape), and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is soft, mellow, and smooth, with aromas and flavors of berries, plums, cherries, currants, and a hint of mocha. At $10.99, it is an outstanding value.

WINE OF THE WEEK, August 25, 2013

2011 DOMAINE TALMARD MACON-CHARDONNAY

FRANCE $10.99

In researching this wine, I discovered that a good number of fine-dining restaurants - including The Red Pheasant Inn here in Dennis - feature this selection. And rightly so. It is a good example of a French Chardonnay which is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks; it has no exposure whatsoever to wood, which contributes to its freshness of taste. Domaine Talmard Macon-Chardonnay is a dry white wine, medium-bodied, with a creamy texture, exhibiting aromas and flavors of tropical fruits. The vineyard is located in the most southerly region of Burgundy, France, which produces some of the finest wines in the world, including Montrachet. The amazing thing is how affordable it is!

Wine of the Week, August 18, 2013

2012 WHITEHAVEN SAUVIGNON BLANC 

MARLBOROUGH NEW ZEALAND 

On Sale this week $16.99

Over the last six months the most popular wines at Harney's have been the red blends (open and drink immediately), box wines (convenient for larger gatherings and for longer storage), and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, which exhibits an intense grapefruit/guava/lime/cut-grass taste, and has become known as the Marlborough style, a region of the South Island. I myself prefer a softer, more subdued grapefruit and cut-grass taste as exhibited by Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and by the French Pouilly Fume/Fume Blanc , Sancerre, and white Bordeaux, in which the Sauvignon Blanc grape is a major component.  Among the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Oyster Bay, Dry Land, Cloudy Bay (the first to popularize New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in this country), and Whitehaven seem to be the favorites. As I always recommend, a side by side (by side) tasting will immediately reveal the difference of styles among New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, the French treatment, and that of Chile.

Wine of the Week, August 11, 2013

BORSAO GARNACHA 2011 SPAIN $8.99/2 for $16.00

Garnacha (Grenache) is the name of a varietal of grape, which is planted extensively throughout the world, especially in Spain and in France, where, along with Syrah (Shiraz), it is a major component of Cotes du Rhone, one of my favorite wines. Borsao is one of those red wines that can stand a sllight chilling in the summer months-half an hour to forty-five minutes-without the loss of flavor.  Borsao Garnacha, 85% Garnacha 15% Tempranillo, is medium- to full-bodied; has an intense, concentrated cherry flavor, similar to kirsch, the German brandy; and aromas and flavors of raspberry, clove, and peppery spice; it is velvety in texture, with a good, long, smooth finish. Robert Parker in the Wine Advocate, whose opinion can make or break a vineyard, has given it 90 points.

Wine of the Week, August 04, 2013

ERATH OREGON PINOT GRIS

2011 $15.99

By way of review: Gris and Grigio refer to the same grape; the difference is style. Pinot Grigio is light and crisp, with a noticeable acidity, a fresh fruit flavor, and, in many cases, just a hint of effervescence; no oak whatsoever. Pinot Gris is medium-bodied, with a fuller mouth-feel, denser, smoother, richer, and less overtly fruity; the influence of oak, in many cases, is present. I enjoy both styles, and the particular style I choose at the time is dictated by my mood, the weather, and the food I am eating. The 2011 Erath Pinot Gris exhibits aromas and flavors of creamy pear and green apple, with a hint of melon, and has a long finish. The best way to tell the difference between Grigio and Gris is to taste them side by side. For example, Kris Pinot Grigio and this Erath Pinot Gris. The difference will become immediately apparent.

Wine of the Week, July 28, 2013

SANTA MARGHERITA PINOT GRIGIO 2012 

Alto Adige region of Northern Italy

$23.99

For many years Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio has been the standard for a certain style of Pinot Grigio: a dry (fruity, but not sweet), light, crisp white wine, with hints of apple, pear, and citrus fruits; this style is produced primarily in Italy and California. Examples of this style with which you may be familiar: Pighin, Kris, Ecco Domani. Stainless steel vats (no oak) help to maintain its lightness and freshness. A different style is exhibited by Oregon Pinot Gris. Both Grigio and Gris refer to the same grape. It's a matter of different styles, not different grapes. A to Z, Erath, King Estate, are examples of Oregon Pinot Gris. Oak vats impart a fuller body, a creamy feel, with a hint of butter. The best way to tell the difference is to taste a Grigio and a Gris side by side. I enjoy both styles, and the particular style is determined by the food I am eating. A tossed salad on a hot day cries out for a Grigio; a quiche needs a Gris. But, your own taste buds, as always, are the final judge in determining what wine goes with what food.

Wine of the Week, July 21, 2013

90+ CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2011 LOT 85
SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS CALIFORNIA
$11.99

Except for France, where it originated, no other wine region in the world does more with the Chardonnay grape than California. Chardonnay is one of most widely-planted grape varietals, mainly because of the relative ease of cultivation and its ability to adapt to different conditions. The grape itself is neutral-tasting which lends itself to many different styles, from the light, crisp, mineral style of Chablis to the buttery, creamy, oaky, tropical fruit style that California is known for. I enjoy both styles, and the preference at a particular time is determined by the food I am eating. Because it is neutral-tasting, terroir, the unique combination of the local geography, geology, and climate, plays such a dominant role in determining the taste. This Chardonnay exhibits aromas and flavors of ripe pear, green apple, and citrus; butter, cream, and oak are present but they do not dominate. The initial burst of full flavor ends in a soft, long, satisfying finish. Serve with your favorite chicken and fish dishes.

Wine of the Week, July 14, 2013

 

Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Star Spangled 

First Crush Winery Cape Cod, $13.99 

It is my pleasure and privilege to introduce the wines of Frank Puzio, a well-known eye-care practitioner here on Cape Cod. Along with Marty, Harney's manager, I recently visited his state-of-the-art facility near Harwich center, where he crushes the grapes (from vineyards that are adjacent to the Napa County line in California), ferments, nurtures, and bottles on-site. Marty and I tasted his five wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Cranberry-Raisin, Cranberry-Raisin-Sauvignon Blanc, each one of them producing a smile of satisfaction, an ah!, and a yes! I will be introducing all of these wines in this column in the near future. This Sauvignon Blanc is crisp and very refreshing with aromas and flavors of grapefruit and guava; it is well-balanced, a harmonious whole with no one element dominating, with a lengthy finish. At present time, the Sauvignon Blanc, the Cabernet (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Malbec), and the Zinfandel (75% Primitivo Zinfandel, 25% Petite Syrah) are available for purchase. Thank you, Frank, for making your wonderful wines available here at Harney's.

 

 

 

Wine of the Week, July 7, 2013

CAMERON HUGHES LOT 324 CHARDONNAY 2010 ATLAS PEAK NAPA VALLEY

CALIFORNIA $12.99

Cameron Hughes has entered into partnerships with the finest growers and wineries in the world, and has become one of the most trusted wine brands in the industry. Their philosophy makes so much sense to me: take advantage of already existing, proven vintners and vineyards. Why try to reinvent the wheel? Get Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina; Pinot Grigio from Italy; Riesling from Germany; Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from California; Grenache from Spain; Shiraz from Australia; Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Other familiar companies that have taken the same approach are Layer Cake, Cupcake, and 90+ Cellars. While one can't argue with their approach, I myself would rather get my hands dirty with soil and stained with wine. Lot 324 delivers what one expects from a creamy and buttery (oaky) Chardonnay. There are aromas and flavors of orange blossom, lemon, almond, pear, and honeysuckle. It's a big wine, with 14.2% alcohol. Harney's has a full line of Cameron Hughes offerings, as well as the wines from Layer Cake, Cupcake, and 90+ Cellars, all of them very affordable.

Wine of The Week, June 30, 2013

2011 KRIS PINOT GRIGIO ITALY $11.99

The Pinot Grigio (also Gris, it's the same) grape lends itself to different styles of wine, varying greatly, depending on region. The plant grows best in cool climates. The Oregon/Alsace, France style/version is medium to full-bodied and has pronounced fruity flavors. The Italian style/version (and California), to which this Kris belongs, is dry, light-bodied, light in color, with a slight spritzy component that adds to its crisp acidity. The Italian style tends to be bland, but this Kris has hints of citus, tangerine, apricots, almonds, and honeysuckle. It pairs well with risotto-like rice dishes, tossed salads, try it with quiche, fish, and seafood, especially with deep-fried calamari..

Wine of the Week, June 23, 2013

RAVENSWOOD VINTNERS BLEND CABERNET SAUVIGNON                                               2010 CALIFORNIA $7.99 

Look at that price! An inexpensive wine doesn't mean that it is an inferior wine, just as an expensive wine doesn't guarantee that it is a superior wine. Ravenswood is to be congratulated for producing year after year, in its Vintners Blend series,  very satisfying wines: Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, at very affordable prices. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 is packed with aromas and flavors of blackberry, black currant, toasted oak, and vanilla. It is a mouthful, a bold and assertive wine, with a firm backbone of agreeable tannins and acidity. It pairs well with all beef products and hearty mushroom dishes.

WINE OF THE WEEK, June 16, 2013

A TO Z RIESLING 2012 OREGON $14.99

The Riesling grape came from Old World Germany to the New World. It is not a recent implant. Oregon has been planting Riesling vines since the 1960s. As a side note, I was recently corrected by a native Oregonian on the pronunciation of his State: I pronounced it Oregone; apparently it should be Oregun. I stand corrected. Oregon is already famous for its succulent Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Add Riesling to that list. There is a depth of aromas and flavors in this Riesling which is not achieved by other wines, whether white or red. There are aromas and flavors of lime, lemon, honeysuckle, a hint of grapefruit, and mineral/slate characteristics. The alcohol content (12%) is higher than most Rieslings, the acidity level is refreshing, with low residual sugars. Pairing: a perfect complement to spicy foods. The beautiful floral design on the bottle alone is worth the price.

Wine of the Week, June 09, 2013

  PIGGY BANK 2010 SYRAH
CHILE $10.99        

Another silly name, but, oh, what a wonderful wine! When I think about Chilean wines I think Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Sauvignon Blanc, but now I add Syrah to that list. As a side note, Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, just as Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape. The difference between Piggy Bank Syrah and a typical Shiraz produced in Australia, for example, is a matter of style and taste: this Syrah is earthy, smoky, with hints of, yes, cured meat; an Australian Shiraz, in most cases, is fruit-forward, with aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, plum, licorice, and chocolate. It's hard to believe that such a wide range of aromas and flavors can be produced from the same grape. Because of its smoky aroma and flavor, Piggy Bank Syrah is a perfect complement to grilled meats and grilled marinated Portabella crowns. I will be here at Harney's throughout the summer and beyond - for as long as the wine god Bacchus allows - from Wednesday through Saturday 4:00 to 7:00. Please drop in to wine-chat or just to chat.

Wine of the Week, June 2, 2013

 MONTE ANTICO 2009 TOSCANA ITALY $10.99

Ah, Tuscany! Why did I ever leave you? I should have stayed! Monte Antico is a blend of Sangiovese (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), and Merlot (5%), the three grapes typical of a Chianti, but it doesn't qualify as a Chianti, because it doesn't have the right/legal percentage of each grape/wine. Blends are the result of either an initial mixture of different grapes before the first crush or a mixture of different wines that have already been fully fermented. I don't know the merits of either approach. Monte Antico tastes of Italy; no other country could have produced it. It is medium- to full-bodied, earthy, a balance of fruit and acidity, with flavors of black cherries, liquorice, and plums. A perfect complement to pizza and tomato-based pasta sauces, beef, and - surprise! - chocolate. Vintage after vintage, Monte Antico is predictably good.       

Wine of the Week, May 25, 2013

PACIFIC RIM ORGANIC RIESLING 2011

COLUMBIA VALLEY

WASHINGTON STATE $13.99

In addition to Pacific Rim's DRY RIESLING, RIESLING, and SWEET RIESLING, all of which we have here at Harney's, and with which you may already be familiar, the vineyard has now  produced a fourth Riesling, one made from organic grapes. A word about organic. In this case, it means that the grape vines have been grown by the method of organic farming, without the use of industrially produced chemicals, including fertilizers and pesticides. However, it does not mean that the wine is sulfites-free. First of all, sulfites are a naturally occurring result of the fermentation process; it is inevitable. Secondly, sulfites are an effective anti-spoiling agent which are added by the vintner (wine maker), especially and extensively, to white wines, less so to red wines. If you are one of the unfortunate 5% of the population which is allergic to sulfites, reading the label on a wine carefully is important. Labels typically read: no sulfites detectable (meaning that the amount of sulfites is almost non-existent), or no added sulfites (the only sulfites are those naturally occurring), or contains sulfites (the vintner has added sulfites to preserve the wine, giving it a longer shelf-life). That said, Pacific Rim Organic Riesling has delightful aromas and flavors of jasmine, apple, and citrus; it is medium-sweet, with refreshing acidity. It is a perfect complement to Asian cuisine, and to light summer dishes.

 

WINE OF THE WEEK, May 19, 2013

LEESE-FITCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CALIFORNIA 2011 $10.99

What a wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon from California! So many Cabernets from California have become cult wines, which, I feel, are overpriced. While they may be good wines, we are paying for the name as we do for so many products throughout the retail world. An expensive price doesn't necessarily guarantee satisfaction. Harney's has many good Cabs for under $20. Leese-Fitch is medium-bodied, has a creamy texture, and exhibits flavors of dark currants, blackberry, with hints of coffee, chocolate, and cedar. I like a more pronounced taste of wood in my Cabs, but at $10.99, I forgive the vintner (wine maker). Please consult the June edition of Ring Brothers Newsletter for some tips that possibly will enhance your enjoyment of wine. 

WINE OF THE WEEK (5/12)

                                    SIMI CHARDONNAY 2011

                            SONOMA COUNTY CALIFORNIA $12.99

The Chardonnay grape is planted in more grape regions of the world than any other grape. It accounts for a wide variety of wines, including Chablis, Pouilly Fuisse, and Champagne, and it lends itself to a wide variety of styles, from unoaked to buttery and creamy. In training new staff members here at Harney's about what wines to recommend to people, I invariably say Simi Chardonnay, which, vintage after vintage, is a predictably good wine. It is dry (not sweet), balanced (meaning harmonious), and offers aromas and flavors of pear, green apple, and tropical fruit, with a slightly creamy mouth-feel, and just a hint of oak. It is particularly complementary to seared scallops, to Shrimp Scampi, and to chicken dishes.

WINE OF THE WEEK, May 05, 2013

WASHINGTON HILLS, WASHINGTON STATE LATE HARVEST RIESLING 2011 $8.99

I prefer dry (not sweet) wines, but some people enjoy sweet wines, so I've chosen this Riesling (pronounced REEsling) as the Wine of the Week. It is called late harvest: a technical term, signifying that the grapes were afforded extra time on the vine in order to develop further sugar and to deepen and intensify flavor. Its alcohol content is low, 11% - a big red is around 14% - because the fermentation process (yeast + sugar=alcohol) was stopped early so that the yeast did not turn all the sugar into alcohol. All wine, even the driest reds, have some residual sugar, just as all wine contains some residual sulfites, a naturally occurring result of the fermentation process. Contrary to popular belief, no wine is entirely free of sulfites. Read the label carefully on an organic wine. It should say either: no sulfites detected, or no added sulfites. 5% of the population is allergic to sulfites. Generally, sulfites are added to white wine as a stabilizer, to give it a longer shelf-life. In most cases, the tannins in red wine act as a stabilizer. Washington Hills, Late Harvest Riesling, is medium-sweet, with intense flavors of honeyed apricots and peaches. Serve it well-chilled, circa 55 degrees. Uses: I suspect that it would overpower any food, so why not enjoy it on its own out on the deck or as an after-dinner drink, or, perhaps make a wine spritzer: ice, 4oz. wine, 2oz club soda, a slice of fruit as a garnish. The screw cap closure, which, I feel, will be universal in the not-too-distant future, makes it convenient. There is, however, no romantic pop with a screw cap.

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 28, 2013

         GASCON MALBEC 2011 MENDOZZA, ARGENTINA $14.99

A drinker of wine comes to a wine with certain minimum expectations. From a Cabernet Sauvignon, I expect a medium- to full-body, I expect flavors of blackberry, dark currant, mocha/chocolate would be nice, and, definitely, a hint of cedar, but I don't want to feel that I need a saw to get through the taste of wood, just a hint of cedar. The Malbec grape is one (1) of six (6) grapes allowed in the blend of red Bordeaux wines. Argentina took the grape from France, planted it extensively, and now produces 100% Malbec wines, identified uniquely with the Mendozza region. Maybe it's only me, but I feel that Malbec has undergone a couple of transformations over the last twelve or so years. Twelve years ago Malbec became very popular, and rightly so. Then, for whatever reasons (mass production or rushing the aging process or flood irrigation - the result is a plumper grape but a diluted taste - or who knows what), Malbec became lacking in flavor, flabby, and weak. If this GASCON MALBEC is any indication, Malbec is back. It is mediium- to full-bodied, with soft, round tannins, with flavors of blackberry, plum, blueberry, dark cherry, spice, and a hint of mocha. Delicious!

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 21, 2013

WHISPERING ANGEL ROSE 2012 COTES DE PROVENCE FRANCE $16.99

We're in the process of increasing the number of Rose wines for the warmer weather. Maybe it's just me, but heavy red wines just don't seem to go down too easily when it's hot out; the taste of alcohol, rather than being integrated, is too pronounced and lingers in the mouth. Historically, Rose wines were syrupy sweet - spine-rattlingly sweet - which turned off most wine drinkers. The preferred Rose wine now is light in body; dry, not sweet; fruity, not sweet. The liquid is not allowed to remain for long with the skins, seeds, and stems; it doesn't touch wood. The resulting color is pink. I recently had a fillet of salmon; I invariably pair salmon with a Pinot Noir. This time I tried a good Rose. The result was marvelous!  Whispering Angel is a blend of five red grapes: Grenache and Syrah (which is typical of the Cotes de Provence in the southeastern area of France), Rolle, Cinsault, and Mourvedre. Speaking of salmon, this wine is pale-salmon in color, with the taste of fresh strawberry fruit, and with a long finish. By the way, you may have noticed the increasing number of wines with silly names and silly labels. In the end, if a wine is good, it will sell itself. Whispering Angel is a very good wine. 

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 14, 2013

 

MASCIARELLI 'MARINA CVETIC VINEYARD' MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO ITALY 2008 

Many of you are already familiar with Masciarelli's Montepulciano D'Abruuzzo, an earthy, rustic, inexpensive red wine from Central Italy. This is a more refined and elegant version of that wine, a recent addition to Harney's. Marina is a big wine, with a 14.5% alcohol level. It is deep-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with concentrated flavors of ripe black cherry and plum, and with hints of mocha and licorice. The tannins are soft, the mouth-feel is silky, with a long, smooth finish. Enough said! Enjoy! $20.99.

WINE OF THE WEEK, April 07, 2013

TERRA D'ORO OLD VINE ZINFANDEL DEAVER RANCH

SIERRA FOOTHILLS CALIFORNIA 2009

On Sale this week for $15.99

California is known and respected worldwide - and rightly so - for its production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay (especially creamy and buttery - imparted by the wooden barrel - Chardonnay), and Zinfandel. Much of California's success with these wines is owing to its geography which I will explore at length in May's Ring Brothers Newsletter. TERRA D'ORO is one of the best Zinfandels that I have ever tasted. I mention Deaver Ranch, the place where the grapes are grown, because the vines there are 100 years old, pulling water and nutrients from multiple soil layers, each layer further enhancing the character of the grapes. 

This wine exhibits a deep, dark, alluring red color; aromas of berry jam, plum, clove spice (typical of Zinfandels), with hints of cedar; and flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, plum, and cocoa.  It is smooth and well-balanced (a harmonious whole: no one element dominates), with a long, velvety finish. The price of TERRA D'ORO has been reduced from $18.99 to $15.99, this week.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 31, 2013

Think summer. Think 90 degrees. Think a lounge chair on the outside deck. Now open a bottle of light and refreshing Protea Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is the name of a white grape, and it is South Africa's most widely planted varietal. (As an aside: the world is indebted to France from which so many varietals have come, including Chenin Blanc. The French, however, are somewhat reluctant to admit that any other country produces wines that are in any way superior to their own.) Protea Chenin Blanc has hints of pear, citrus, and, especially, honeysuckle. Succulent! Not one person at a recent tasting at Harney's, had anything but smiles and praise for the wine. You can't miss the bottle: it is unique and striking with its white paisley design. $14.99.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 24, 2013

I would like to depart from my usual format, and suggest a few of my favorite wines for your pleasure during the upcoming holidays. In some cases the wine may be a little higher in price than what I usually recommend, but I feel that the holidays invite us to "kick it up a notch."

WHITE

Big Fire Pinot Gris (Grigio), Oregon. I feel that Oregon, on the whole, produces the best - at least to my taste - Pinot Gris in the country right now. It is fuller-bodied, with more fruity flavor, than the standard Pinot, as exhibited in Italy and California. $13.99.

La Crema Chardonnay, California. Medium-bodied, buttery and creamy, with a hint of pineapple. A very satisfying mouthful. $16.99.

Hugel "Gentil," Alsace, France. Perhaps my favorite white wine at Harneys. The white wines from Alsace are extraordinary. Hugel, made from, mainly, the Pinot Blanc grape, is elegant, balanced, smooth, dry, with a hint of - is it? - honey. $14.99.


RED

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, France. You may be familiar with Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau, but the Village version is a step above, having a more intense color and taste. Light and fruity. 100% Gamay grape. $9.99.

Big Fire Pinot Noir, Oregon. Tasters have suggested the aromas and flavors of wild rose, tea leaf, violets, pomegranate, berries, chocolate, plum, tarragon, and cranberries. It is certainly soft, ripe, warm, vibrant, but, can there be so many aromas and flavors in one wine? Taste and see. $15.99.

Cameron Hughes Merlot, Chalk Hill, California. Luscious. Succulent. Very satisfying. If you like Merlot, you'll love this Merlot, which exhibits deep aromas and flavors of dark fruit and mocha. $18.99.


I will be continuing with wine terms in the upcoming (April) monthly newsletter, exploring further the differences between dry and sweet, and between fruity and sweet. And in May, I will explore the role that geography plays in the production of wine.

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 17, 2013

COPPOLA CLARET CALIFORNIA $19.99

I enjoy a good wine made from each and every varietal: a Malbec from Mendozza, Argentina, a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, a Shiraz from Australia, a Tempranillo from Spain, a Merlot from Columbia Valley, Washington State, but my favorite wine is a well-made Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily from California, and, secondarily, from Chile. One of my favorite movie makers is Francis Ford Coppola of GODFATHER and APOCALYPSE NOW fame. In Claret, the two, Cabernet Sauvignon and Coppola, come together. Coppola would not stamp his name on anything that was less than excellent. And, although a little higher in price than an everyday wine in the $10 to $15 range, it is affordable as a weekend wine or for a holiday. Many California Cabernets have become cult wines, and, although they are good, I feel they are overpriced. Claret is the name that the British at the beginning of the twentieth century gave to Bordeaux-like red wines. This edition of Claret is mainly, as always, Cabernet Sauvignon, usually in the 80% range, with lesser amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Although it is a complex wine, given all the varietals, it is balanced, and exhibits smooth tannins, succulent flavors of blackberry, cassis (black currants), plum, with hints of mocha and cedar. It satisfies all my expectations (weight, color, aroma, and taste) of a good Cabernet Sauvignon. Enjoy!

WINE OF THE WEEK, March 09, 2013

 

Dolmo Tempranillo Spain $11.99

There are many very good wines at Harney's in the $10 to $15 price range. All of the wines featured in WINE OF THE WEEK have been less than $15. There is no need to spend more than that for an everyday wine. You might be willing to spend a little more for the weekend or for a special occasion, such as Easter (in a later WINE OF THE WEEK, I will suggest three white wines and three red for Easter). I've tasted some very expensive wines that were horrendous. As with all products in the retail world, the name of the product often determines the price, but not necessarily the quality.

Tempranillo is a red grape (just as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are red grapes), grown extensively in Spain. Dolmo is a red wine. As an aside: all grape juice is white; the depth of color of a red wine is determined by the length of time the juice spends with the skins; White Zinfandel (the Zinfandel grape is red) spends very little time with the skins, so, the resulting color is pink.

Dolmo is an earthy wine, soft, with low acidity, with aromas and flavors of berries, plum, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla. It is very food-friendly, pairing well with beef. It is located in the Spanish section of Harney's, in an endcap facing the beer cooler.
 
WINE ENTHUSIAST magazine rates Dolmo 90 points, which it deserves.